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Comoros: Witchcraft and Ruins

The lake of eels was renowned for witchcraft. I peered into the dark water, looking for the sacrificial chickens but saw only fish. Nearby, on a jungle road was a woman with a frightening, corpse-like...

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Sicily: Secrets of a Mafia Village

Apart from the enjoyment of sumptuous dinners in the most far-flung trattorias of Sicily, nothing was easy about my Mafia project. I ended each day of my journey—a mad hunt to photograph historical...

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Permanent Florentines

Mason and I arrived to find the Cimitero degli Inglesi locked. Since the publication of Permanent Italians, the graveyard’s opening hours had changed. The only name on the buzzer was Holloway, a...

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